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No complaints about autumn 2018 here. What a banger, for those on the left coast that is, the right coast and Norse Shore have got the rest of the winter to play catch up. A whole brace of banging days, solid swells and good times across Cornwall, Devon, Wales, Ireland and even some cheeky moments on the Channel coast. All served with mild weather, hell, even sunshine.
It was one of those autumns that we’ll get to tell the groms about in the future. This is an ‘it was better in the old days’ season of days to come. It sure as hell rights the ledger for the woeful spring and summer. So on balance 2018 turned out nice. It certainly makes making a magazine easier, most of the year we’ve had very thin pickings from pumping sessions at home. Now, in classic boom or bust style, we’ve got enough shots to do a magazine somewhere in the region of a 1000-pages thick. But that would be unwieldy. You might get trapped on the toilet under it. Not to mention the postage to subscribers being a bit eye-watering. The postie, who surfs and is on good terms with us, would prob nail our door shut. It’s been a real joy seeing the work of a new generation of photographers drop into my inbox. After twenty years in the game seeing shots that aren’t rehashes of other shooters concepts or variations on a theme is a treat. Creativity is alive and well in British and Irish surfing folks: new angles, fresh eyes on old spots, new tech making working in our weak, wintery light doable. So it’s a pleasure to bring you a healthy dose of bangers from home in this issue. Pull in and enjoy.